18855 West 59th Drive, Golden CO 80403
(303) 277-9678
info@craigluebben.com
25 years rock and ice climbing
First ascents on rock in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, West Virginia, Canada, Mexico,
Cuba, Puerto Rico, Cayman Brac, Mona Island, France, China, and Madagascar, up
to 5.12d and V
First ascents on ice in Colorado, Italy and China, up to WI7 M8 and 200m
24 ascents of the Diamond on Long's Peak, including the first one-day winter ascent
7 ascents of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley
Many grade V and VI ascents in Yosemite, Zion, and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
First or second ascents of many hard offwidth cracks including onsight of Lucille
(5.13a)
Free-solo linkup of Bridalveil Falls (WI5+ 120m) and Ames Ice Hose
(WI5+ 150m)
A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock (1991), Horsetooth Press
Knots for Climbers (1995), The Globe Pequot Press
Advanced Rock Climbing (1997), co-authored with John Long, The Globe Pequot
Press
How to Ice Climb (1999), The Globe Pequot Press
How to Rappel (2000), The Globe Pequot Press
Go Climb! (2001), North South Publications
Betty and the Silver Spider, an Introduction to Gym Climbing (2002), Sharp
End Publishing
Betty in Anchorland, Rigging Good Rock Climbing Anchors (2003), Sharp End
Publishing
On the Rocks, an Introduction to Rock Climbing (2004), The Mountaineers
Books
Senior contributing editor, Climbing magazine.
Board of Directors, American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), 1998 -
2004
Rock Guide Instructor, AMGA, 2001 - present
Certified Rock Guide, AMGA, 1991
Climbing Guide for Colorado Mountain School, Aspen Expeditions, San Juan
Mountain Guides, Acadia Mountain Guides, Desert Ice Mountain Guides, Condor Adventures,
Colorado State Outdoor Adventure Program, 1981 - present.
Bachelor of Science in Mechanical Engineering, Colorado State University, 1984
51 graduate engineering credits, Colorado State University, 1985-1987
Performed graduate research on arc jet thrusters for space propulsion, 1985-1987
Invented BigBro tube chocks, 1984, currently distributed by Great Trango Holdings
Inc.
Tested and reviewed: ice tools, crampons, ice screws ice hooks, camming devices,
alpine climbing, cragging packs, ropes, and helmets for Climbing and Rock
& Ice magazines.
Organizer, Horsetooth Hang Bouldering Festival, 1991 - 2001
Current Slide Show: The Great Ice Walls
of China and Cuba Rocks
Five Ten
Sterling Rope
Misty Mountain Threadworks
American Mountain Guides Association
American Alpine Club
Access Fund
Peking University Mountaineering Club
Climbing
Ph.D. Chemist
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